Wash, rinse, repeat. Tap, pay, go. The best consumer brands build habits that stick. For Medik8, it came down to three simple letters: C–S–A.
- C: Vitamin C in the morning
- S: Sunscreen by day
- A: Vitamin A at night
That simple CSA philosophy transformed a London shed experiment into one of the fastest-growing dermocosmetic brands in Europe. But Medik8 did more than simplify skincare. It broke down the false choice between “clean” and “clinical.” With ethical ingredients and hard science, Medik8 built consumer trust—and in 2025, L’Oréal acquired a majority stake for £1 billion.
Here’s how Elliot Isaacs grew Medik8 from a CSA framework into a global beauty brand, and what it tells us about the future of skincare.
A Founder Who Saw the Gap
Elliot Isaacs, a scientist trained at the University of Leeds, spent years studying physiology, pharmacology, and biochemistry. A four-year backpacking trip through Asia gave him insight into diverse skincare traditions and a deep appreciation for ethical consumerism, echoing pioneers like Anita Roddick of The Body Shop.
He noticed a glaring gap:
- Ethical brands (The Body Shop, Lush, Herbivore) had values but lacked efficacy.
- Clinical brands (SkinCeuticals, Obagi, Murad) had science but felt cold and inaccessible.
Medik8’s positioning? Why not both? Ethical and effective skincare.
From “The Shed” to the CSA Philosophy
Isaacs didn’t rush to market. Instead, he studied peer-reviewed dermatology journals at the British Library, narrowing in on three proven anti-aging essentials: Vitamin C, sunscreen, and Vitamin A.
In 2009, in his father’s pharmacy lab—nicknamed “The Shed”—he formulated Retinol 3TR™, a stabilized, gentle retinoid. He followed with C-Tetra® Vitamin C serum and an SPF30 sunscreen, completing the CSA philosophy.
The genius? Complexity distilled into a simple routine. Much like AG1’s “one scoop a day,” CSA gave consumers (and skincare professionals) a trusted shortcut.
Why Medik8 Chose the Professional Channel
Instead of chasing Sephora shelves, Medik8 launched through professional skincare channels: dermatology clinics, medispas, and estheticians.
- Professionals validated Medik8’s science and introduced CSA directly to clients.
- Credibility was baked in: a dermatologist’s recommendation beats a Facebook ad.
- Margins were stronger than retail, CAC was lower than DTC, and loyalty was deeper.
This slower but deliberate path gave Medik8 a moat—trust before hype.
Steady Growth Before the Breakout
Between 2014 and 2020, revenue grew from £6.9M to £19M, with gross margins in the 62–72% range. Expansion into European pharmacies, prestige retail (Harrods, Sephora), and DTC ecommerce accelerated growth, especially during the pandemic.
But the real breakout came with a private equity partnership with Inflexion in 2021:
- Built a 100,000 sq ft Innovation Centre with net-zero construction.
- Tripled headcount, scaled R&D, and doubled factory capacity.
- Grew D2C six-fold and increased U.S. sales seven-fold.
By 2024, sales had reached €65–75M, setting up the billion-pound exit.
The £1 Billion L’Oréal Acquisition
In June 2025, L’Oréal acquired a majority stake in Medik8 at a €1B valuation, a ~13× multiple on 2024 sales. Inflexion retained a minority stake, Isaacs stayed on the board, and CEO Simon Coble (ex-FaceGym, The Body Shop) led operations.
Why L’Oréal bought in:
- Dermocosmetics growth (8–10% annually).
- Medik8’s unique positioning between mass (CeraVe) and clinical prestige (SkinCeuticals).
- Strong 34% gross margins vs. L’Oréal’s average 26%.
- Huge global rollout potential, especially in the U.S. and Asia.
L’Oréal has done this before—scaling CeraVe from $100M to $2B+ in under a decade. Medik8 could be next.
Lessons for Founders
Medik8’s CSA journey holds powerful lessons for founders:
- Frameworks cut through noise. CSA turned science into a story.
- Credibility before hype. Professional channels built trust at the start.
- Capital strategy matters. Private equity gave operational help that VC couldn’t.
- Europe → U.S. is easier than U.S. → Europe. Regulatory discipline creates stronger companies.
Final Word
Medik8 didn’t “hack” skincare. They played the long game: clarity, ethics, science, and channel discipline. The result? A billion-pound outcome and a global platform for growth.
For founders, the takeaway is simple: you don’t have to choose between ethics or efficacy, speed or patience, hype or credibility. The right framework—and the right channels—can deliver both.
👉 What other beauty or consumer brand playbooks should we break down next?
