How to Manufacture Hypoallergenic Jewelry (Nickel-Free Requirements)

If you’re a new jewelry founder, “hypoallergenic” probably feels like a checkbox.

Just tell the factory no nickel, right?

Not exactly.

Most allergic reactions don’t come from obvious mistakes. They come from trace materials, hidden layers, and shortcuts factories assume you’ll never test. This is why so many “nickel-free” products still cause irritation and why founders get hit with returns, bad reviews, or compliance issues after launch.

This guide breaks down what hypoallergenic really means in jewelry manufacturing, where nickel sneaks in, and how to specify it correctly from day one.

What “Hypoallergenic” Actually Means in Jewelry

There’s no universal legal definition of “hypoallergenic” in jewelry. In practice, it means:

1. No intentional nickel use
2. Nickel release below regulatory thresholds
3. Skin-contact surfaces made from stable, non-reactive materials

Important distinction:

Jewelry can be nickel-free by composition but still fail nickel release testing if nickel exists in base metals or migrates through plating.

That’s where most founders get burned.

Where Nickel Sneaks In (Even When You Say “No Nickel”)

Nickel almost never shows up where founders expect it.

1. Base metals

Many common jewelry alloys contain nickel for strength and cost control:

1. Brass
2. White copper
3. Low-grade stainless steel
4. Zinc alloys

Factories may still use these under plating, assuming the top layer “blocks” skin contact.

It doesn’t always.

2. Plating stacks

Nickel is often used as:

1. A barrier layer
2. A brightening layer
3. A cost-saving substitute under gold or rhodium

If you don’t explicitly ban it in every layer, it may be included automatically.

3. Components and findings

Even if your main piece is clean, nickel can appear in:

1. Earring posts
2. Jump rings
3. Clasps
4. Pin backs
5. Chain connectors

These parts are often sourced separately and missed entirely in specs.

Materials That Are Truly Hypoallergenic (When Done Right)

Here’s what works when properly specified:

Solid precious metals

1. Solid gold (14k+)
2. Platinum
3. Palladium

⚠️ Note: White gold alloys may still contain nickel unless explicitly specified as nickel-free white gold.

Stainless steel (specific grades)

1. 316L / surgical steelLow nickel release when processed correctly, but not all “stainless” is equal.

Titanium

1. Naturally hypoallergenic
2. Lightweight
3. Requires specialized machining and finishing

Sterling silver (with caveats)

1. Generally safe
2. Can still cause reactions if alloy quality is poor or surface finishes degrade

Founder tip: Always ask which alloy standard is being used, not just the metal name.

Plating and Coatings: The Most Critical Layer

Plating is where hypoallergenic claims usually succeed or fail.

What good hypoallergenic plating requires

1. Nickel-free barrier layers (palladium instead of nickel)
2. Adequate micron thickness for durability
3. Proper surface prep before plating
4. Full curing before handling and packing

Common factory shortcuts

1. Thinner plating than quoted
2. Nickel underlayers “because it’s standard”
3. Skipping barrier layers entirely
4. Rushing cure time to hit ship dates

The result:

1. Nickel migration over time
2. Skin contact exposure after wear
3. Reactions weeks or months later

Nickel Release Testing (What Founders Should Know)

Nickel isn’t always banned outright, it’s often regulated by how much releases over time.

Key things founders miss:

1. Passing once ≠ passing forever
2. Wear, sweat, and friction increase nickel release
3. Testing should be done on finished goods, not raw components

You should be asking:

1. Which standard is being tested against?
2. Is testing done pre-production or post-production?
3. Are high-contact areas tested separately?

If a factory can’t explain their testing logic, they’re likely not testing consistently.

Regions Matter More Than Founders Expect

Different manufacturing regions have very different norms:

1. EU-focused factories are more accustomed to strict nickel release rules
2. Low-cost accessory factories may default to nickel unless prohibited
3. Mixed-material supply chains increase risk if oversight is weak

This doesn’t mean one country is “bad.”

It means process maturity and compliance culture vary by factory, not just geography.

What to Put in Your Factory Specs (Non-Negotiable)

If you want truly hypoallergenic jewelry, your specs should explicitly include:

1. Nickel-free requirement for all layers, not just surface
2. Approved base metal list
3. Approved plating stack (with materials named)
4. Micron minimums for plating
5. Nickel release testing requirement
6. Coverage of all components, including findings

If it’s not written, it’s not enforced.

Final Thought for New Founders

Most jewelry allergy issues aren’t caused by bad intent.

They’re caused by assumptions.

Factories assume:

1. You won’t test
2. You won’t ask about underlayers
3. You won’t spec components separately

Good hypoallergenic jewelry comes from clear requirements, not trust alone.

If you start with the right specs, the right materials, and the right factory discipline, “hypoallergenic” stops being a risk and becomes a real differentiator.

That’s how you protect your customers and your brand early.